Yesterday we took off about 11am in the jeep and drove over to Akumal. It takes 3.5 hours in a car. We put up the hurricane curtain across the front of the condo in about an hour and a half. There were some things we didn't expect, like the loops will only fit into eye bolts that are a little open so those have to be on the top. We moved quite a few. Also, the straps seem to be on the wrong side, we have to call about that. All in all though it was a good practice run and it will go faster the next time.

There were streaky clouds across the horizon and gusty winds, the only sign that hurricane Gustav was across the way devastating Cuba and the Cayman Islands.

We also had to go into Playa to pick up our truck and then when we started back down the coast we realized we hadn't eaten anything all day so we stopped in Tulum for dinner. All that and we were back in Mérida by 11pm, a 12 hour trip.

The dogs were fine, anxious to get out and to eat but no problem behavior.

I had been worried that if we got in an accident or something they would all be locked in the RV with no key around so we dropped a key off with our friend Theresa and it made me feel a lot better. What would Theresa do with 3 big dogs and a teenage kitten you ask? We also left her the card of our vet who does house calls and boards animals so she could meet him here and he'd take them. I love the convenience of some things in Mexico, everything can be delivered. In a lot of ways it's not at all convenient here but then there are the things that just work so much better.

Security is very high here, I'm sure most of you have read about the 12 headless bodies found in Mérida on Thursday. The number of police roadblocks along the way were tripled and they were really looking at everyone in the car, no casual waves through. We fit no one's profile and weren't stopped but they looked carefully. Same thing over in QRoo, more military and police inspection stations, careful looks, lots of visible police of all types.

Today we spent the day furniture shopping and lunching with Henry, some of his other clients and Terrence. We had a great time, went to a factory that makes furniture for high end hotels and got big discounts on a bed frame and chaise. We also went to one of the big malls and looked at more furniture, bought some chairs for the terrace that are made from banana leaves. It looks like strong rattan and wears well. Tamale chairs I was calling them, wrapped in banana leaves.

Then we changed into our closest match to all white clothes and went to the march. It is a march that was held at 7pm today in cities all over Mexico and other countries calling for increased public security in Mexico. Wear white, bring a candle and walk in silence was the order of the day. I think this is the only thing I've ever been to in Mexico that started on time. Of course, we are so acculturated that we were late. So, we ended up speed walking the length of Paseo Montejo to catch up to the others. We caught up close to the end and the crowd filled a couple of blocks and a glorieta of this huge 6 lane boulevard. Even walking so far so fast, it was incredibly moving. It was led by a young boy carrying a Mexican flag and a baby in a stroller. It was silent except for the radios of police, stationed all along the way with the street closed. Flashing red and blue lights from their cars, the static from their radios and in the middle all of these people dressed in white just walking and carrying light. Iluminemos México

At the end there were some chants of Sí se puede (Yes you can) but mainly the crowd just chanted the city's name ¡Mérida! ¡Mérida! ¡Mérida! over and over and over. I've always felt that this city has a personality and a presence, she was there tonight and it seemed everyone felt her. I think she is hurt and in pain right now but perhaps encouraged.

After all that, we went out to dinner with our friends John and Mary. We had the traditional Chiles en Nogada, made at this time of the year to celebrate Mexico's Independence day on Sept 16. It's an exquisite dish, chiles stuffed with meat and covered in walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds. It has the 3 colors of the Mexican flag, red, green and white. Delicious!